Mariana Islands – Start in Guam
Our Philippines trip ended for us in Manila, the capital city where we were hoping to find a flight into a new adventure. Manila wasn’t really a city we wanted to explore. Instead it was time to create a new plan for a new adventure. That’s where my fantasy has no ending and where I can work easily until midnight. After hours of research the plan was set and our next adventure leads us direction Guam.
Guam is an organized territory of the United States in Micronesia in the western Pacific Ocean. Since the 1960s, the economy has been supported by two industries, tourism and the United States Armed Forces. Furthermore, Guam had a big role to play in the WWII against the Japanese force and Tinian Island was the launching point for the atomic bomb attacks against Hiroshima and Nagasaki.
Over the Mariana islands
Arrival in Guam
Enough history back to our story. We were very exited for that trip. Both of us were not really sure what to expect on that island and I think that was exactly how an adventure should start. Anyway, the first challenge we faced was that our plan was landing in Guam at 4am. We decided not to book a hotel stay for that day and were silently hoping for an early check-in.
As we arrived, we both were tired as we not really got enough sleep in the plane. Everything went quick even because of US customs rules. They were friendlier than what I experienced at US mainland. Anyway, we took a taxi to our hotel Days Inn. To be honest, not booking a room was a bad decision as we were really tired as we arrived. Our hope of getting an early check-in also got smashed as soon as we entered. They were not really expecting guests at that time and the receptionist even told us that the usual check-in will be at 2pm. What are we gonna do for the next 8h?
One thing that became clear to us when we arrived is that we will need a car. The Asian prices are over as the 5min Taxi ride costed us USD 20. There was not really a public transport, the streets looked exactly like in North America and you see nobody walking here. Welcome to the US ????
Therefore, mission one getting a car. Luckily, our hotel was not that fare away from the airport and we found a cheap option at ACE car rental. They opened at 7am and as my online reserved car was ready immediately, we WALKED to the car rental station. It felt like a walk of shame.
Finally, getting a car but still more than tired, we found a MC Donald’s where we got our first coffee. The rest of our morning until 1pm we had to sleep/stay in our car. It wasn’t really a comfortable option and definitely not restful but we didn’t want to pay an extra USD 60 just for an early check-in. Finally, at 1pm we were able to enter our room that more looked like a motel room. Another reminder for us that the “Asian times” focusing on the prices are over as we paid USD 90 for that night.
Later the day, we explored a bit the area and did all the organizational stuff as getting a local SIM card at Docomo Pacific and looking for other hotel options. The day ended for us early as we were still suffering from our “night” in the car.
Exploring Guam
Our target for the next day was to explore the northern part of the island and find a better hotel. We found one closer to the touristic area Tumon Bay and booked for another two nights at the Bayview hotel.
Off we go and we started our trip up north. Secretly, I was hoping to get a glance of the Andersen US air force base. Unfortunately, they covered everything pretty good and the only thing we were able to see was the air force entry shield.
Anyway, that was not the only reason why we have chosen that island. Away from Downtown we found the wide nature and drove along the scenic street and stopped at the stunning view points. The weather at the time of our arrival was unsettled but we were lucky on that day.
On our second day, we covered the south part of the island. Another stunning ride on the scenic highway with multiple stops in the hills or down at the coast. We enjoyed our little road trips and were keen to stop at every place or turn in into every side street. With that another day was gone.
Awesome view point in Guam
Mariana Islands – More than just Guam
As I told you at the beginning, we were not sure what to expect in Guam and we found out that Guam is just the biggest and most developed island but as far not the only island of the Marianas. We were keen on seeing the other islands Saipan, Tinian and Rota and tried to figure out how to get there. The most usual way is by air with US airways but we were not willing to pay their fare rate. We found a local cargo airline called Star Marianas Air. As we visited their office in Guam we’ve got told that they don’t offer passenger flights anymore to Saipan and that we should get in contact with Arctic Circle Air. Luckily, the office for that company was just the next counter on our left. Indeed, they offered passenger flights and even had availability for the next day. We took that opportunity and booked a one-way trip to Saipan for the next day.
Source: OCHA/ReliefWeb
The next day we had our first unusual airport experience. We’ve got to come to their office 2h prior to the flight which was at 10am. As we arrived, they just quickly checked the weight of us self and our luggage. Afterwards, we were just waiting at their cargo area and had a good chat with the employees as they were curious where we come from and what we are doing here. It looks like that these passenger flights were mostly booked by locals travelling between the islands instead of tourists as we were. As 10am came closer, we were asked to get ready and off we go. The door got opened and we were asked to sit into an 8-seater Pilatus Islander (N675AC). The pilot was ready and welcomed us with a charming smile.
The rest is history. We had an amazing flight to Saipan, more you can see on our video.
Saipan – Island of the casino
We arrived in Saipan and our first act was to pick up our pre-booked car at ACE car rental. This time we were lucky and got a SUV for a good price. We pre-selected three hotels and headed out to check them out. Our final choice was the TF Seaside hotel. As we entered our room we immediately seen what the main tourists are on that island, Chinese. Everything was translated in Chinese and the Smart TV was even only running in Chinese language. Nevertheless, we had our Chromecast where we were able to stream our phones & laptop.
This was not the only thing, in the center they build a huuuge casino, the Imperial Palace, that goes above every imagination for such an island. We found out from locals that China has a visa waiver program specifically with Saipan and that’s why the island gets flooded with Chinese tourists.
However, we followed our usual procedure and that is, first let’s explore. We drove up north where the island provided again stunning views like the Suicide Cliff or the famous Grotto. This island surrounding was way quicker than the one from Guam and so we had seen the island coasts within a day. The most conspicuous on that island road trip was the pink mustangs. Yes, you read correct. It looks like that Chinese tourists in Saipan mainly are interested in PINK mustangs. What for us looks like an ulcer or let’s say something that you just don’t do with an American muscle car, is for these Chinese tourists the must have. Posing included, see below.
Please don’t do that – pink mustang
We enjoyed our stay and beside of exploring we dived into the local nightlife. The first night we checked out the local bar scene and on the second day they had a local festival in their park. It was quite big and they provided local culture food and local entertainment with shows and music. One of these entertainments was a dancing performance where at the end they chosen some visitors/tourists for a dance competition. One of those was me. Yes, you hear correct, I never said I can dance but this time I had to. Don’t try to look for a video or pictures, they are secured on my phone ????
Overall, it was another island experience with unexpected tourist groups on a small island in the Marianas with a big casino. We were not yet fully happy with our trip to the Marianas as we still were looking for a remote island. Our last try was Rota.
Last but not least – Rota
On our 6th day on the Marianas, we arrived in Rota. Again, without a car you would be lost here. This time we were not even able to book the car online. We had to call Enterprise car rental to be able to reserve a car. It was a small airport and I think we would have had a hard time to find a taxi here. Even smaller than Saipan, even more difficult to find accommodation. We remembered a local saying on the plane to Saipan that there are a few options to stay and we remembered the hotel Valentino and the Coral Garden hotel. We decided to check them out personally. The first hotel Valentino was a bit overpriced and at the Coral Garden hotel they were really welcoming and they also had a room free with sea view, perfect for us. The town is on the south side of the island and I have to say it is a pretty laid-back town. You see nobody walking on the street and not more than a few cars passing by. I also remembered that they were joking in the plane that in Rota everybody is waving each other in the car. Now I know that this wasn’t a joke.
Rota – Around the island
We decided to start our tour around the island. We drove up from Songsong along the East coast of the island. This was the time we realised, remote island here we are. A narrow dirt road track through a jungle and hills. Sometimes we not even had mobile network where the question came up what we would do if we would get stuck with the car. Let’s hope not. On the other hand, it was a real adventure. We drove by abandoned houses or hotels with doors wide open, one school bus left in the woods and stunning views over the island and the coast.
Roadtrip in Rota – pure wilderness
We had around 2-3 hours until we were back to the civilization. You can believe it or not but we didn’t come across any car or person during our trip. It was a bit scary actually but we enjoyed the free nature experience and were happy that our car made it to the end.
Going back, we followed the west coast where the street was right at the beach. It was a beautiful ride with an amazing coastal view. Back in Songsong town we realized that beside of driving around the island there was not much to do and Songsong was more like a ghost town. We didn’t find a bar on the whole island only a handful restaurants. Alright, we needed something to do for our planned five days. This is where diving came into the game.
Diving with Rubin
We heard about two dive centers on that island and one of these was Scuba Center Rubin. We checked out the dive center and met Mr. Yamamoto. The center is run by a Japanese couple. They were more than welcoming and as they had time the next day to take us for diving we booked straight away.
The next day, Alisha didn’t feel that good and therefore I went alone. On that day three Japanese tourists were on board too and so we were a group of four divers and our dive guide Mr. Yamamoto. The dives were straight forward, first Coral Garden and afterwards the Rota Hole. He gave us at the beginning clear instructions and draw a perfect dive map at the panel. The boat ride out to the dive spots were just minutes away from the coast. Rota has its beauty let’s say just in front of their houses/beaches.
It was my first experience diving with Japanese divers and I was impressed about their calm and quite way of diving and having the eye for the little details underwater. The Coral Garden was impressive. I don’t have many dives up to now but I covered a couple of countries. So far, I haven’t seen such big corals and especially not in that amount.
The second dive was at the Rota Hole. It is a cave that is open at the top and when the sun is shining in you can see the sunlight through the water. It was a stunning experience and we even were lucky to see a reef shark in the cave.
I was really impressed about these two dives and it was a pleasure to dive with Mr. Yamamoto.
This day has to be repeated and as Alisha anyway was not able to join at that day it was more than fixed to go again on the next day. Luckily, Alisha was feeling better the next day and we had another great day on the coast of Rota. This time Alisha and I were the only one’s diving and therefore we had two private dives with Mr. Yamamoto. He really made our day and we had another two awesome dives with plenty of corals and sea life at the Pinatang & Jerry’s reef.
You don’t believe us, have a look at our dive movie from Rota with Rubin.
Awesome visibility on our dive in Rota
Summary
Overall, Rota was a small island and pretty laid back. Nevertheless, this was something I was looking for and we were able to spend somehow 5 days on that island. Even if the day was nothing more than driving around by car and stop by at Anne’s convenient store to have a quick chat with the cashier or stopping at the Docomo mobile store when the network didn’t work or just randomly looking for a good spot we haven’t seen on the island. To be honest, the diving activity helped us to kill some time in a good way.
Saipan was a bit a controversial island and I missed the island character. In my opinion such a big casino doesn’t belong on that island. Even we heard some comments of locals who weren’t happy about the current development of the island.
Last but not least, our first island Guam. It has a certain character that let you feel to be on the US mainland. It is a bigger island and it had a lot to explore. The island is the most developed of the Marianas but again I have to say it felt more like a big city than the Micronesia island we were expecting.
My favorite, Rota and this due to our diving experience. We would come back to dive with Rota Scuba Center Rubin.
Cheers,
Ueli
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